Saturday, October 30, 2004

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Hungary in crisis

The Guardian reports on a serious crisis in Hungary:

It is the country's national spice, a fiery seasoning of which the average Hungarian devours half a kilogramme a year. But now consumers in Hungary been advised to steer clear of paprika.
Shop shelves are being cleared of the spice and products that contain it after a possibly carcinogenic toxin was found in supplies.

The police are investigating whether South America was the origin of a batch of paprika containing high levels of the chemical aflatoxin, which was distributed by three Hungarian companies.

In some cases, the concentration was 10-15 times higher than the permitted level. The chemical can lead to illnesses such as liver cancer if consumed in large amounts.

The EU has advised member states that they can ban paprika products from Hungary.

Sales of the spice, an important ingredient of the national dish goulash, were banned on Thursday, and dozens of products are being tested....

Hungary is one of the biggest paprika exporters in the world, about 5,000 tonnes a year going most to Germany, Austria, the Netherlands and Slovakia.

Hungary without paprika is like... like... [China without rice? Italy without pasta? Russia without cabbage?--ed.] No, it's worse than that. There are dishes in those countries without the essential ingredient. I'm sure it's true of Hungary as well, but during my time there, I can't recall of a single thing I ate that didn't have paprika in it [Even the paprika ice cream?--ed. Oh, shut up.]

Everyone here at danieldrezner.com wishes the Hungarians the best of luck as they deal with this gastronomic crisis.

posted by Dan on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM




Comments:

I would advise the Hungarian public to switch to Spanish paprika for the time being--but everyone knows it's only good for color.

Incidentally, I believe paprika was introduced relatively recently (e.g., the 18th or 19th century) to upscale Hungarian pantries, when the Napoleonic wars prevented the importation of black pepper. (George Lang's Cuisine of Hungary, from memory)

posted by: Maureen on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



IIRC, a similar thing happened in India five or six years ago. Because of drought or blight, there was a severe shortage of onions. Onions are apparently a staple of most pauvre Indian cuisine, and the sharp increase in the price of onions actually did turn into something a significant political problem.

posted by: SomeCallMeTim on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



...like Korea without kimchi.

posted by: The Sanity Inspector on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



>I would advise the Hungarian public to switch to Spanish paprika for the time being--but everyone knows it's only good for color.

It tastes like dirt. Real Hungarian paprika is good stuff. I don't understand why they'd be importing it from SA.

>Incidentally, I believe paprika was introduced relatively recently (e.g., the 18th or 19th century) to upscale Hungarian pantries, when the Napoleonic wars prevented the importation of black pepper.

Sources conflict. Gundel says that peppers were grown in Hungary in the middle of the 18th century (they came to Europe with Columbus), but ground paprika didn't appear until later. And cookbooks did not begin to recommend it in place of pepper until after 1830.

Elek Magyar says the Turks brought it north and it was referred to as 'heathen pepper', but that it was widely adopted in response to the continental blockades. That only makes sense for a brief period tho. And I'm not at all sure such a blockade would have been terribly effective. (Not without the Turks getting involved). Particularly since Austria was often part of the anti-Napoleon Coalitions.

I expect this is more legend than anything.

ash
['All I know is, they had best not mess with my paprika supply.']

posted by: ash on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



I don't understand why they'd be importing it from SA.

Ash,

It's plentiful in Brazil. My father-in-law has several trees growing wild on his farm. Indians used it to color their face.

It's not bad, at least in my experience.

posted by: Randy Paul on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



" . . a fiery seasoning . . "

Surely some jests. After living in Europe for several years and enjoying Hungarian cuisine (a break from German) fiery isn't the word. A mild tingler would be more accurate. Habenrano is fiery.

posted by: William on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



This truly is a crisis. Paprika serves much the same purpose in Hungary as MSG does in China: a pinch of it can add inexplicably bold and articulate flavor to just about anything. Worse yet, this situation could shape up to be another example of EU suppression of local artisanship.

posted by: John-Paul Pagano on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



It's time for Soros to bail Hungary out....

posted by: QuantumFunds on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



There's some fine smoked paprika coming out of New Zealand. Perhaps some in-kind humanitarian aid is in order?

posted by: Rachel on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]



But if they think South America was the origin, then the good Szegedi paprika I have in my pantry is OK. Right?

(tries to keep from screaming over the desecration of the paprika supply)

Ahem. all right, I'm better now...

Peanuts always have some aflatoxin. I eat peanuts. If the object is to reduce aflatoxin, consider me off peanuts for the duration of the crisis. :)

posted by: speedwell on 10.30.04 at 07:49 PM [permalink]






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